2023 Vintage Report
The 2023 vintage at KAHIWI will be remembered for its textbook early season, warm summer nights, and an abundance of delicate tannin with early ripeness. It ultimately rewarded us with profoundly structured wines of exceptional promise.
Early Season (September - December 2022): The growing season commenced predictably. Budburst arrived punctually in late September and progressed rapidly, reaching 80% budburst after just 7 days. October and November saw gradual temperature increases, occasionally spiking towards 33°C. Frequent rains supported growth and tempered stress as both soil and air temperatures rose steadily.
Our Pisa site's hallmark spring winds gusted into triple figures (km/h) but remained manageable, causing no significant disruption to flowering. Beginning on December 7th, flowering progressed smoothly to 80% completion by December 14th. This stability allowed for excellent fruit set, hinting at potentially heavy bunches if January brought substantial rain.
Mid-Season (January - February 2023): January, however, brought heat instead of rain. Warm nights, with barely an hour below 10°C, and only 5mm of rainfall allowed soil temperatures to stay above 20°C. This significant heat accumulation and lack of cold fronts or frigid diurnal swings influenced fruit development between fruit set and veraison, a chance to emulate the profound tannins in Central Otago's 2013 vintage.
Our vines, their roots delving deep into clay and schist-flecked soils, showed remarkable resilience. Donald Van der Westhuizen of Moko Hills vineyard introduced a new phenological acronym: ECT (early crunchy seed), its durability dependent on future climatic stability.
This was our first full season practicing zero tillage across the entire property. Combined with mid-row cover crops, this approach bore fruit. Vegetated soils, permeated by living roots, resisted UV and wind damage, only steadily releasing moisture. Our resident chickens thrived in the warmth, their scratching adding bucolic charm to the parched landscape.
The vines reached lag phase on January 15th, with the first signs of veraison appearing on February 7th.
Late Season and Harvest (March - April 2023): Temperatures initially remained high, with veraison progressing to 50% by February 16th and 80% by February 25th. A dramatic shift followed, with a late February downpour (almost 50mm in 48 hours) and cooler March temperatures creating conditions reminiscent of elegant vintages like 2012 or 2017.
Harvest commenced on March 23rd, coinciding with the Autumn equinox. Cooler temperatures and visible snow on nearby peaks allowed for meticulous fruit selection. An unseasonable warm spell later pushed fermentations to vigorous completion. Harvest centered on March 26th, concluding shortly after.
The nascent construction of our new winery added excitement and occasional challenges to the harvest. Réjane Gimenez's presence in the cellar brought a gentle touch and calming serenity to the potentially chaotic environment.
Winemaking: Early indications for the 2023 vintage wines are extremely positive. The fruit's excellent phenolic ripeness promises wines of great structure and balance. Summer heat provided concentration, while pre-harvest cooling preserved vibrant acidity. The warm fermentation period framed the wines' depth, with a resulting tension between power and elegance.
This vintage underscores our belief in working harmoniously with nature. As our new winery takes shape and our farming practices evolve, we're excited for the wines that will emerge from this special place in years to come.
The 2023 vintage at KAHIWI is a compelling chapter in our evolving story, speaking not just of a single season but of a vineyard coming of age. As these wines journey from barrel to bottle, they promise to offer a fascinating Southern Hemisphere counterpoint to the great Pinot Noirs of the world.